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by Linda Heaphy March 20, 2017
Photo courtesy of Gregor Younger
Visit Angkor Wat today and you are met with a shrill chorus of "one dollar one dollar one dollar" from hordes of begging children, while in Ethiopia the unrelenting chant is "you you you you". In Cambodia, older children organise groups of smaller ones to jump up and down in front of photo vistas; Nepalese kids pull and punch you until you hand over "protection money". These resourceful strategies are the new front line in what has become one of the most common and frustrating dilemmas faced by modern travellers, that of begging.
Firstly, some hard facts about the child beggars you see everywhere on the streets of your holiday destination. You may be surprised to learn that many are the unfortunate victims of child trafficking and are owned outright by business syndicates (in Europe, it's different: child beggars specialize in pickpocketing and are usually part of criminal organizations, often run by their own families). Sold by their parents or kidnapped from the outlying countryside by brokers, these children are required to pay off their purchase debt and ongoing living expenses by bringing in money every day. If their takings are inadequate they are beaten or left unfed. Pretty children are the most lucrative earners; unattractive children are sometimes maimed to increase their earning capability. A child's greatest earning potential is between the ages of two and seven. After this time their appeal to tourists declines rapidly and they are sold on to lower ranking syndicates. For girls the path is especially hard. By the age of eleven or twelve their begging potential is exhausted and they are sold again to brothels. By the age of eighteen the majority of these girls are HIV positive or already dead.
Not all of the children you see out there belong to syndicates. Many children have discovered that begging can be a lucrative and entertaining pastime, especially when Americans are around. Forgoing school and their homes to hang around the tourists that throng their cities' landmarks, they have learned to ask for coins for their "coin collection", shampoo, sweets, pens, in fact anything they can cajole or wheedle out of the unseasoned traveller. And many tourists believe that by giving children things rather than money, they are somehow subverting the begging cycle or "doing good". Nothing can be further from the truth. Visit the websites of third world aid organizations and you discover that your gifts of sweets and lollies are creating an epidemic of tooth decay in countries where dental hygiene is non-existent. And many of the other favourites on the lists of would be do-gooders are simply sold back to local stores by children who have no intention of using them at school. But the effects of easy benevolence get worse and resonate throughout these children's lives. Because they are unable to compete with the largesse of Western travellers, their parents' authority is undermined, and children often stop attending school or leave home altogether. Without an education, trade or work ethic, they are doomed to a lifetime of poverty and misery. Many cities in the world have prominent signs in public places requesting that you do not give money or gifts to children. A sign in Durbar Square, Kathmandu, states why very clearly: if you give money to our children, you will turn them into beggars. They will not go to school, they will not receive an education, and they will not learn a trade. You will ruin them. In the words of one seasoned traveller, children have no business hanging around foreigners, and as a foreigner, it's your responsibility to make sure it doesn't happen.
Adult beggars are often part of syndicates too. If you are observant in India and Thailand, you can see them being dropped off by minivan in the morning and picked up again late at night. Part of a syndicate or not, the question of whether to give to adults money is a difficult one and requires much more consideration. On one hand, scams are widespread. Like children, adult beggars have learned not to ask directly for money but for "aid". In India a common sting is for a woman with a small baby (generally rented) to ask you to buy her a can of milk formula. The tin is then returned to the store to be resold over and over and the proceeds are split between the storekeeper and woman. However, some of those people you see begging are genuinely sick, mentally ill, elderly or otherwise unfit to earn a living. Thailand, for example, has no system of social security and the Thai king himself has noted that the sick and poor must rely on the good will of others.
How to know when its right to give? One traveller asks himself the following questions: will what I'm doing improve this person's life, or degrade it? Will it promote greed and dependency, or foster some small degree of autonomy? And how will fellow travellers to this place — tomorrow, next month or ten years from now — be affected by my actions? In general, as always when travelling, discretion and good sense should be observed. Follow the behaviour of locals: don't give to aggressive beggars, those that practice self-maiming, follow you or are obviously able bodied. Don't give to women with babies or small children, it is likely that they are rented. Do give to the elderly. Make sure that when you give money it's done discretely, otherwise it may be taken off them after you leave and give only at the end of your visit, otherwise you may be mobbed. Give it in the local currency. Money changers change small denomination coins and notes at exorbitant rates. Give proportionally. In Morocco, an agricultural labourer earns approximately 50 dirhams per day. Giving 1 dirham to a beggar is therefore very generous.
If you looking for ways to make a positive contribution when travelling, here are some alternatives to putting you hand in your pocket and handing out alms. But be warned. These suggestions are not always easy to follow and will require some effort on your part to achieve.
The bottom line is, if you're not prepared to give responsibly, then you shouldn't give at all. As human beings we have a duty of care to each other and as travellers, a responsibility to leave as small an impact as possible on the places we visit – including the people. And unless we can find a way to stop this vicious cycle of begging, it will resonate into the future for many more generations to come.
If you have anything to add to this list or would like to suggest local charities and schools that you can personally attest for, your comments are welcome!
May 11, 2018
Thanks for writing this article, Linda.
I’ve been travelling for almost 18 months now through a couple of different continents and still am left feeling unprepared and caught off guard when somebody approaches me requesting aid (money, food, the clothes I’m wearing).
Usually when I’m bombarded with requests/demands near a classic tourist destination I find it easier to decline direct handouts to a local, whereas it’s the odd, less touristic places where somebody may approach me and seem remotely interested in my story who then will draw the conversation to money and I’m left feeling more selfish and useless for not complying.
While I agree with the general concept of most of your tips for responsible gift giving, I’ve found some places it can actually be trickier in practice than theory and something I’m still trying to work on as I go.
For instance, in Cusco, Peru, fewer and fewer travel agencies still run second hand clothes/goods donation collection/dropoff services in the community due to the problems clothing hand outs can have on the local economy for locals who run clothing shops. Also, there’s the basic problem that most western tourists are simply giants compared to people from the Andes, so clothes are simply nowhere near suitable sizes for donations, that’s if the clothes are even practical (suited to the climate and local taste). What I will say is that there are more accepting children’s clothes than anything else, but generally they’re really just requesting cold, hard local currency.
Similarly, while the idea of collecting masses of school gear from your home town and sending it off to a developing country sounds good, I’ve often found (from Australia at least) the postage fee almost outweighs the value of the goods themselves. I feel like this money may have been better spent directly buying stationary supplies from the local community you want to help.
I’ve also taken part in volunteering programs where I’ve offered either basic labour (property maintenance work) for charity sites in return for free accommodation or even attending language exchanges to try to assist locals in mastering English, the language of business (and occasionally they will even let me try to practice their language too). Even with these situations where I am giving nothing but time, I do sometimes wonder if I am taking away the opportunity for a paid position for a local (no matter how simple my work may be), or if I am contributing further to producing a society of two incomes (the english speakers and the non english speakers).
Anyway, I’ve no doubt that I’ve overthought this matter. I think long term travel full of lengthy bus trips and no wifi can contribute to certain topics receiving more of your attention than is normal.
Again, thanks for the article! I’ll continue pondering and welcome your thoughts too.
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by Linda Heaphy May 22, 2017
Read MoreKashgar began through a love of travel.
In 1989 my father Bernard packed in his house painting business and set off for two years on a backpacking trek to the remotest corners of the world. When he finally arrived in the oasis city of Kashgar, China, he was so impressed with its history that he decided to start a new life collecting and selling exotic goods from all over the world. For 2000 years the legendary city of Kashgar was a melting pot of ideas and a key trading post on the historic Silk Road. It was this unique combination of philosophy and trade that my father wanted to recreate at home.
Starting in markets in 1991, he opened his first store in the Sydney suburb of Newtown in 1994. I gave up my own career as a government scientist to join him in 2000 and soon convinced my partner Ian to join us in what was to become the Family Business.
Today our version of Kashgar stocks a hugely diverse range of furniture, rugs, textiles, antiques, handicrafts and jewellery sourced from over twenty different countries including India, Nepal, Tibet, China, Thailand, Burma, Laos, the Philippines, Vietnam, Mexico, Peru, Turkey, Palestine, Syria, Afghanistan and Turkmenistan. Our collection includes contemporary and tribal silver and gold jewellery, a unique range of headhunting curios, antique Buddhist relics and a collection of one-off necklaces, earrings and bracelets that I design and create myself using the beads and jewellery making techniques of ethnic minorities from around the globe.
Kashgar is a philosophy as well as a store. We are committed to supporting traditional artisans and small village communities by selling authentic handcrafted goods which are personally collected by us. By supporting traditional methods of design and production we hope to encourage local cottage industries which have a low impact on the environment and help ethnic minorities maintain their self-sufficiency into the 21st Century. We are particularly committed to assisting women around the world and to this end have worked with several organisations including the Hua Bin Women's Union of Vietnam, the East Timorese Women's Association and Tikondane in Zambia. Time honoured means of craftsmanship and traditional ways of life are disappearing as people all over the world give up their identity in favour of jeans and T-shirts. We see our trade as a means of staving off the inevitable encroachment of the 21st century, assisting communities to decide for themselves which parts of the western world they wish to incorporate (medicine, education) and which they wish to reject (prostitution, drug production, begging and servitude to warlords). We encourage our customers to think of the handicrafts and artifacts they buy from us as an investment: a piece of history and a way of life that may soon be gone forever.
Kashgar has recently closed its retail outlet and gone completely online.
In the past our pieces appeared in many movies including The Hobbit, Mission Impossible 2, Queen of the Damned, Scooby Doo, Moulin Rouge and Wolverine, and in many televisions series, as well as in plays, commercials and exhibitions. We've found special pieces for individual customers as well as for film sets, event management companies, hotels, businesses, consulates and embassies. The uniqueness of our stock means that we are also very appealing to interior and fashion designers with a taste for the exotic.
There is something for everyone at Kashgar - collectors, the curious, those looking for a special present or for something unique to adorn the home. Most of our items are one-off specialties; other pieces we only stock in small quantities so as to continuously offer a wide and ever-changing range of interesting products. We are also packed with ideas for decorating home and work premises that will challenge your established concepts of design and storage.
Please enjoy - Linda Heaphy
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Bonny
May 11, 2018
Sorry for my lengthy response, and sorry again for continuing my essay, but I recall another conflicting issue I’ve encountered with the act of “giving” that adds a little more complication again.
After I visited Cuba and I understood exactly what a society can look like once tourists start a habit of feeding a begging mentality with direct handouts. Many charities universally recommend avoiding direct handouts from tourist to the hands of a local, saying this encourages professional beggars. They would prefer there be an agent in the middle to handle the logistics and ensure a more equal distribution of donations where they deem it is most appreciated/needed.
Then I visited Mexico where rural towns had just experienced yet another devastating earthquake. Speaking to some local families and Mexican volunteers while standing amid the rubble of what was once a home, they assured me they would be receiving no assistance from the local Red Cross. They had lost faith in such assistance programs (having not been contacted more than a month after the damage occured), and discouraged me from making a donation to an official charity, saying it would only be absorbed by their country’s corrupt upper levels. They advised that if I want to help, that I don’t throw away my money to an official charity.
Now what do you make of that!?
Damned if we do, damned if we don’t!