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Gaddang Ceremonial Wrap Skirt (Ehoh-Loho Aken)
$985.00
Ehoh-Loho Akin - a rare example of a vintage, handwoven and beaded ceremonial wrap skirt from the Gaddang (Ga'dang) people of the Cordillera region of northern Luzon, Philippines. Mid to late 20th century. Cotton and glass beading. A colour palate of indigo blue/black, deep madder red and lighter red stripes with yellow detailing, handwoven on a back strap loom in a single piece that incorporates beads in a technique known as bead-inclusion weaving(locally known as manu'bak), finished with hand stitching.
The akin (aken) or wrap skirt is a highly prized handwoven textile. Authentic pieces such as this one are exceptionally rare and are treated as wearable art due to their distinctive heavy beadwork and extremely complex woven patterns. In this case, a Gaddang master weaver threads individual bukat beads directly onto the warp (lengthwise) or weft (crosswise) threads row by rowasthe fabric is built.
In the context of theakin, "ehoh loho" is a phonetic rendering of a traditional Gaddang phrase used to describe this skirt's specific pattern. Gaddang weavers follow a strict, mathematical placement of coloured bands when formatting the warp on a backstrap loom. The term "ehoh loho" identifies the alternating sequence of thick and thin stripes of deep indigo blue and madder red that run horizontally around the skirt. It also designates an unbroken or continuous pattern that wraps around the wearer's hips without interruption.
According to the Bahay Ugnayan Research Center, aken skirts are highly communicative garments; the placement of every stripe and bead tells a story about the weaver's social status, lineage and subgroup.
These wrap skirts are traditionally secured at the waist with a thick, heavily beaded belt called a bakwat.
Purchased in Baguio, Philippines in the year 2000 as part of a larger collection of traditional woven Gaddang textiles, this museum-quality piece was in fact housed for the majority of the year in a local museum and was loaned to locals on ceremonial occasions.
Measurements:79 cm x 59 cm
For a detailed discussion of the Gaddang people and their way of life please visit Yodisphere and their excellent article The Gaddang Tribe of the Philippines: History, Culture, Customs and Tradition, Arts & Crafts
Photo credit:SIL International