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Muga & Pat Silk Shawl & Choli
$890.00
Hand loomed muga-mulberry silk chador shawl and smaller matching choli piece. Purchased in person from the renowned Sualkuchi Village near Guwahati, Assam, northeast India, in 2002. Finished with a complex and rich tribal Assamese pattern woven in silk thread that is identical at both ends, while the smaller piece has a matching border.
Our textile is a highly prized Assamese silk hybrid weave that comprises a warp and parts of the weft of mulberry silk (pat) while the naturally golden Muga silk is interwoven alongside it. This creates a uniquely luminescent texture because the fabric catches the light differently than pure Muga, offering an ivory-gold luster that provides the perfect ground for intricate threadwork decoration. The fabric is characterised by a crisp, paper-like structural body that is light as air and a delight to hold against the skin.
Regarding the pattern of embroidery displayed within this remarkable textile, the ultra-dense tribal border (miri bota) features interlocking geometric diamonds with stepped edges. This is a traditional Assamese design, influenced by the Mising tribe. Achieving this level of geometric symmetry across a wide border using extra-weft thread counting (where a single misplaced thread ruins the entire pattern) is a testament to the skill of the weaver. Scattered uniformly across the main body of the chador and lining the inner borders are small, repeating three-pronged motifs, called gos buta (Tree of Life or plant sprout motifs). They are sacred symbols in Assamese culture, representing nature, growth, fertility, and the deep connection the weaving communities have with their local ecosystem.The hand-tied fringes and tassels at the ends of the chador indicate that this piece was finished with the highest level of care reserved for premium luxury commissions. The unsewn blouse (choli) piece intentionally places the matching border along the edge so that when tailored, it will align perfectly on the sleeves or base of the blouse.
In regards to the acquisition of this and our other muga/endi silk textiles, they were purchased by us in 2002 in person from the village of Sualkuchi. They were woven during what is now considered to be the golden age of Assamese silk weaving, at a time when the renowned and famous blind Master Weaver was resident at the village. Our textiles are nearly a quarter-century old, making them true vintage heirlooms and exceptionally special. As discussed later, Muga silk has a unique biological property in that it never fades, but rather its natural golden-yellow luster deepens and grows richer with age and washings. Our 24-year-old Muga pieces are in the process of developing a deep, warm honeyed patina that brand-new pieces cannot replicate. The early 2000s also predated the influx of cheaper, power-loom lookalikes, synthetic blends, and chemical dyes that began to flood the market later on. Our pieces represent a period of uncompromised handloom heritage. We may not carry the "authentication" serial numbers that current pieces have, but we absolutely predate the need for that authentication.
At the time of our visit we were privileged to meet the blind Master Weaver as he went from loom to loom, touching each piece of textile and discussing with the weavers any adjustments to tension and pattern that he required. Meeting him at this time means we caught him during a golden era of weaving craftsmanship.
Muga silk (along with Endi or Eri silk) is one of the two rarest and most exclusive silks in the world. It is produced exclusively in the Brahmaputra Valley of Assam, India, the only location in the world where the Antheraea assamensis silkworm is found and feeds only on the leaves of the muga plant.Muga silk is characterised by a distinctive golden luster. It is never bleached or dyed, the golden colour being derived entirely from the natural diet of the muga silk worm. In this case, blending muga silk with mulberry silk has produced a shimmering, white-gold textile that is beautiful to behold and light as air to wear.
This chador can be worn as is, as a beautiful and very luxury shawl/wrap, or made into a dress, trousers or skirt. It would also make a very attractive wall hanging or bed throw. The smaller piece is a pristine canvas suitable for making up into a blouse or other small garment, or even a cushion cover.
Price includes both pieces.
Measurements:
Small piece (blouse length): Width 84 cm x height 97 cm
Shawl: Width 106 cm x length 2.7 metres