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Muga Silk Tribal Shawl - Simple Border Pattern
$650.00
Hand loomed vintage muga silk sari shawl, called the chador or upper shawl portion of a traditional Assamese two-piece dress known as the mekhela chador. Purchased in person from the renowned Sualkuchi Village near Guwahati, Assam, northeast India, in 2002. Made up of 100% muga silk in both warp and weft. Finished with a rich tribal Assamese pattern woven in cotton and silk thread.
This classic style is know as a heirloom Plain-Body Chador (Buku Thoka Chador).
The omission of small motifs (butas) on the body emphasises the natural texture and golden sheen of the silk and creates a striking contrast to the the heavy end-borders (aanchal or palav) rich with visual detail. The border design on this piece features a disciplined, microscopic geometric layout that requires a high level of thread-counting precision. The main border field (miri bota grid) is a dense, repeating pattern composed of tiny, interlocking double-layered diamonds. This grid is deeply rooted in the traditional geometric weaving of the Mising (Miri) community of Assam. It represents the chang ghar (traditional stilt houses built over water), where the criss-crossing bamboo lattices provide structure and strength. The sawtooth framing line runs horizontally across the top of the heavy red border as a sharp, jagged, geometric zig-zag line. Known as the kharika (thatch grass or twig motif) or a stylized koka (chevron), in Assamese folklore it represents either jagged mountain peaks or the protective perimeter fences surrounding rural villages, functioning as a symbolic boundary that protects the core design. Below the main grid sit two thick red horizontal stripes, capped by hand-knotted cream fringes. These lines are called guni or paari stripes. They anchor the entire textile both visually and physically, preventing the ends of the hand-loomed silk yarn from unraveling while framing the design.
The choice of colour palette is also significant - a traditional combination of crimson red paired with charcoal black. Because the body is plain gold, the weaver intentionally saturated the borders using thick, extra-weft cotton or silk threads. The mathematical symmetry of this dense grid (woven without dropped or misaligned threads) shows that the weaver mapped each spacing precisely.
In regards to the acquisition of this and our other muga/endi silk textiles, they were purchased by us in 2002 in person from the village of Sualkuchi. They were woven during what is now considered to be the golden age of Assamese silk weaving, at a time when the renowned and famous blind Master Weaver was resident at the village. Our textiles are nearly a quarter-century old, making them true vintage heirlooms and exceptionally special. As discussed later, Muga silk has a unique biological property in that it never fades, but rather its natural golden-yellow luster deepens and grows richer with age and washings. Our 24-year-old Muga pieces are in the process of developing a warm, honeyed patina that brand-new pieces cannot replicate. The early 2000s also predated the influx of cheaper, power-loom lookalikes, synthetic blends, and chemical dyes that began to flood the market later on. Our pieces represent a period of uncompromised handloom heritage. We may not carry the "authentication" serial numbers that current pieces have, but we absolutely predate the need for that authentication.
At the time of our visit we were privileged to meet the blind Master Weaver as he went from loom to loom, touching each piece of textile and discussing with the weavers any adjustments to tension and pattern that he required. Meeting him at this time means we caught him during a golden era of weaving craftsmanship.
Muga silk (along with Endi or Eri silk) is one of the two rarest and most exclusive silks in the world. It is produced almost exclusively in the Brahmaputra Valley of Assam, India, the only location in the world where the Antheraea assamensis silkworm is found and feeds only on the leaves of four plants predominantly from the Lauraceae family.
Muga silk is characterised by a distinctive golden luster. It is never bleached or dyed, the golden colour being derived entirely from the natural diet of the muga silk worm. As a result, muga silk is one of the strongest natural fibers in the world. Muga saris are considered heirloom textiles and are said to last through the lifetimes of three generations of women, with repeated washings actually increasing the fabric's shine rather than causing it to fade or deteriorate. As a result, muga silk is often called the Golden Treasure of Assam.
The cultivation of the wild muga silk worm, the extraction of the silk threads and the hand weaving of the cloth, with its beautifully tight weave and intricate decoration, is precise and difficult. As a result, muga silk clothing was historically the almost exclusive precinct of the royal family of Assam. Even today, muga silk saris are the ultimate choice for celebrations such as weddings, religious events and festivals.
Measurements: Width 98 cm x length 188 cm
This chador textile can be worn as is as a beautiful and very full wrap over contemporary clothing or made into a dress, trousers or skirt. It would also make a very attractive wall hanging or bed throw.