Muga Silk Tribal Shawl

Hand loomed vintage muga silk sari shawl, called the mekhela or lower skirt portion of a traditional Assamese two-piece dress known as the mekhela chador. Purchased in person from the renowned Sualkuchi Village near Guwahati, Assam, northeast India, in 2002. Made up of 100% muga silk in both warp and weft. Finished with a complex and rich tribal Assamese pattern woven in cotton and silk thread.

The dense, repeating diamond shapes covering the lower halves (paari) and borders of this exceptional textile are called the miri buta and are inspired by the traditional weaving styles of the Mising or Miri tribe of Assam. The small, isolated red and black diamonds scattered across the main body of the fabric are classic geometric accents called hira buta, used to balance the heavy borders. The interlocking orange, yellow, and green zig-zag or chevron bands near the fringed hem are called kalka/lehar and represent river waves or structural paths, a staple in indigenous Assamese handloom art.

In regards to the acquisition of this and our other muga/endi silk textiles, they were purchased by us in 2002 in person from the village of Sualkuchi. They were woven during what is now considered to be the golden age of Assamese silk weaving, at a time when the renowned and famous blind Master Weaver was resident at the village.   Our textiles are nearly a quarter-century old, making them true vintage heirlooms and exceptionally special. As discussed later, Muga silk has a unique biological property in that it never fades, but rather its natural golden-yellow luster deepens and grows richer with age and washings. Our 24-year-old Muga pieces are in the process of developing a deep, warm honeyed patina that brand-new pieces cannot replicate. The early 2000s also predated the influx of cheaper, power-loom lookalikes, synthetic blends, and chemical dyes that began to flood the market later on. Our pieces represent a period of uncompromised handloom heritage. We may not carry the "authentication" serial numbers that current pieces have, but we absolutely predate the need for that authentication.

At the time of our visit we were privileged to meet the blind Master Weaver as he went from loom to loom, touching each piece of textile and discussing with the weavers any adjustments to tension and pattern that he required. Meeting him at this time means we caught him during a golden era of weaving craftsmanship.

Muga silk (along with Endi or Eri silk) is one of the two rarest and most exclusive silks in the world. It is produced exclusively in the Brahmaputra Valley of Assam, India, the only location in the world where the Antheraea assamensis silkworm is found and feeds only on the leaves of the muga plant.

Muga silk is characterised by a distinctive golden luster. It is never bleached or dyed, the golden colour being derived entirely from the natural diet of the muga silk worm. As a result, muga silk is one of the strongest natural fibers in the world. Muga saris are considered heirloom textiles and are said to last through the lifetimes of three generations of women, with repeated washings actually increasing the fabric's shine rather than causing it to fade or deteriorate. As a result, muga silk is often called the Golden Treasure of Assam.

The cultivation of the wild muga silk worm, the extraction of the silk threads and the hand weaving of the cloth, with its beautifully tight weave and intricate decoration, is precise and difficult. As a result, muga silk clothing was historically the almost exclusive precinct of the royal family of Assam. Even today, muga silk saris are the ultimate choice for celebrations such as weddings, religious events and festivals.